The Heart of Africa

Hello from Tanzania,

This beautiful country was formed in 1961 as a country of over 120 tribes coming together. Their then President was trying to create community through a shared language- Swahili. He was concerned with so many different peoples speaking different tongues, coming from differing value systems. He mandated that kids from one side of the country go to school and live with other families on the opposite side. Essentially, they created a huge exchange program within their own country.

Tanzania is the 31st largest country in the world, so it’s quite big. The populous continued to mix as tribes intermarried and the result is one of the most peaceful, welcoming cultures we’ve encountered. The Tanzanian people are really proud of the success of the grand exchange and talk about how even now, if you’re somewhere and in need of food or shelter, strangers will gladly provide it, as they’ve been doing for generations with the school children all over the country. I strongly believe that when we brush shoulders with the “other”- people we don’t know, and see firsthand that our differences don’t have to be bad or threatening, the world becomes a much better place for all. Tanzania has done this as a country and I commend them for that.

This last week spent in Tanzania has been eye-opening to say the least. As beautiful as all of the natural wonders have been, with lions right by the road, the herds of zebra and wildebeest, the lives of most people here are quite rough. Less than 40% of the people have access to running water and clean sanitation. Most tourists fly from one place to another in small planes but we chose to travel by car to see things and really get a comprehensive view of the country. As we drove down the roads 6-12 hours per day (remember African massage?) we saw a lot. I’m so tired of riding in vehicles and could probably sleep for a week.

The differences between the US and where we’ve been are stark. Houses here are made of mud and cow dung, with no running water, no electricity, no AC, no mode of transport aside from your feet. When you walk in stores, which are often shacks, they usually have their lights off and turn them on because you’ve arrived. The roads are all deep red dirt (like Georgia) except the main roads running across the country. The basic things that I take for granted each and every day (like electricity, bathing & sanitation, a toothbrush, period products) are ultra luxuries here and it’s odd as it makes me feel both sad and grateful. I’m left wondering why some have so much and some have so little.

The people here are kind, good, working hard and making even less than Kenya, at $4 a day. Most people can’t make ends meet with a single job, so villagers often cultivate land around them and there are many small plots of verdant green growing rice, beans, bananas and corn. It’s hilly and beautiful here and the land seems so abundant, it’s just so poor.

We visited a local school and ended up talking with the administrators for a while. It turns out the Kenyan government gives them just $40 USD per YEAR for supplies. Their school term had just begun once again (they’d just finished Winter Break) and it was day #1 of school and they had no chalk. The classrooms had no power, and 60-80 kids were in each classroom. When we went into the classrooms, half were devoid of teachers, with children just waiting around. When we asked them what they needed, they said books- and pointed to the back bookshelves which were completely empty without a single book. The paint was peeling off the walls, it was cold and the kids were all bundled up at school with no heat, no computers, no books, no chalk, no nothing. Most parents can’t afford school lunches, which cost $15 per year per student, so 75% of pupils depart school midday for the trek home to have lunch which can be up to 4 kilometers. The students who leave are gone for up to 3 hours and many don’t return for the 2nd half of the school day. So yes, people are coming here to see the animals, but skipping over the people- and they are left wanting. It’s tragic, really. If you’re interested in learning more and how to help- visit the non-profit Focus on Tanzanian Communities which is making a positive difference within Tanzania.

All of the realities of the world and pensive thoughts which follow, compiled with the constant road travel has left us all a bit tired. I just realized that earlier trips have been a bit more insulated from the problems of the world, as Luna was with us and we hadn’t wanted to saddle a 5 year old with the harsh realities of life. The world feels good, but also more burdened than it’s been previously and it’s hard to see that, particularly with Luna in tow.

100% of the people we’ve spoken with who are really striving to create better lives for themselves and the future of their families have 1 child. This is because they know the resources they are accumulating won’t go far when they have to pay for private school and make ends meet. There is hope for the future, but changes are taking time to implement.

During our time in Tanzania, our favorite park was Ngorongoro Crater Conservancy. It is the largest intact caldera in the world, and when the center sunk the lush volcanic soil created a nutrient rich savanna leaving great grazing areas for herbivores. When that happened, many predators decided to stick around so now Ngorongoro has the highest concentration of carnivores in Africa. It was a wonder to see the mist in the morning as we drove into the park.  When the clouds rolled away and lifted and we saw all kinds of animals, it was the perfect last chapter for our travels in Africa. Off to Nairobi and then to Vietnam the next day!

Sending love your way,

Carly